Narrated by Sophia Dibbs Bowl from Naqada. Accession number: 99.685 Museum of Fine Arts, no date. Glancing through the Boston Museum of Fine Arts’ (MFA) online catalogue of its Art of Ancient Egypt, Nubia, and the Near East collection, one could easily miss object number 99.685: a rather humble and unassuming marl bowl.
As one of 65,000 objects within the collection, this everyday piece spends most of its time locked away in storage. Instead, the Egyptian galleries display intricately-painted sarcophagi, canopic jars that were once filled with organs, and gold statues of deities. Yet, it is through exploring the object biography of this plain-seeming culinary vessel from the predynastic Naqada II period, 3650–3300 B.C that we can trace the influence of European colonialism on the production of heritage and archaeology. Excavated in 1898-99 from the grave site of Abadaya (also known as Ballos), at the behest of the infamous Egyptologist Flinders Petrie and the Egyptian Exploration Fund, the bowl’s life trajectory post-excavation was guided by European colonial powers. Located in upper Egypt, sandwiched between Alexandria and Port Said, and known in the ancient past as the Land of the Reeds, Abadaya was a fertile land, generously dotted with grave sites from both the Old and New Kingdoms. Along with the bowl, it is here where many significant Egyptian artefacts were unearthed, leading to the field’s expansion of knowledge of these periods and civilisations. Undoubtedly however, when those souls were laid to rest with their possessions, they had not an inkling that they would be disturbed by archaeologists from the Northern Hemisphere some few thousand years later. Nor were they likely aware that the contents of their graves would end up scattered across North America, the United Kingdom, Australia and central Europe. While British excavation teams were largely leading the exports of Egyptian antiquities across the globe, other European colonial powers such as France and Germany were also profiting from the colonial boom in excavations around the turn-of-the-century. The next stage in the bowl’s biography was its marking: the moment in which it transitioned from its original context to become an object considered historically worthy of recognition by the excavation team. Using Petrie’s groundbreaking method for cataloguing artefacts, his wife Hilda and fellow team member Beatrice Orme labelled the bowl in white paint with the marking ‘R112’ to indicate tomb number and location. The baking heat of the Egyptian sun quickly dried the markings before the objects were packed up. The bowl then embarked on a long journey from northern Egypt up to the East Coast of the United States. Once arrived on American soil, the object was sent to Egyptologist Arthur C. Mace who acted as a facilitator for it to be accessioned into the MFA’s collection in October 1899 in exchange for the Museum funding some of the expedition. The Egyptomania that had swept across Europe from the time of Napoleon had begun to take hold in America during the latter part of the nineteenth century, fuelling museums such as the MFA to seek out Egyptian objects. In travelling with the bowl from its place of origin in the Lands of Reeds, through the process of its excavation and marking, to its long journey across the North Atlantic Ocean and up towards the Boston harbour, we have seen how colonial contexts of archaeology and the European assumption of rights to Middle Eastern and North African heritage led to the great diaspora of Egyptian material cultural heritage. But will the FMA be the bowl’s last stop? For an object that has already existed for thousands of years, it seems likely that its story is not yet finished…
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Narrated by Elif Aydın Sümela Monastery © The Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Türkiye The Sümela Monastery, nestled in the Maçka district of Trabzon (Trapezunta), is celebrated for its breathtaking location, carved into steep cliffs at the end of a winding, zigzagging path. While this building technique is seen in various parts of Anatolia, Sümela's dramatic perch on a mountainside sets it apart. Though its origins are shrouded in mystery, certain stories have emerged over time. According to the most popular legend, the monastery was founded by two Athenian monks, Barnabas and Sophronios, who were guided by a vision of the Virgin Mary. In their dream, she revealed the location of St. Luke, hidden deep within a cave in the remote mountains of Pontus. The monks eventually discovered the icon in Karadağ (Black Mountain) in Maçka, and there, they built the monastery as a mission school to train future monks. The name "Sümela" is believed to have derived from the word "Melas," in reference to the Black Mountain, as 'stou mela' or 'at Mela,' which is pronounced as 'sou Mela' known in the Pontic dialect "Romeika." Over the centuries, Sümela grew to become one of the oldest and most significant monasteries in the Orthodox Christian world, often compared in importance to Hagia Sophia. In Turkish, the monastery is called "Meryem Ana," meaning Mother/Virgin Mary, underscoring its deep spiritual significance. The name Panagia Sümela, or "Sou Mela," translates to "Mother of God at the Black Mountain." Every August 15th, the monastery becomes the heart of celebration in the Black Sea region for the feast of the Dormition of Mother Mary. Yet, what makes the rituals at Sümela truly unique is the presence of the kemençe, a traditional stringed instrument that is central to Black Sea culture. Despite the solemn nature of religious services, the inclusion of this vibrant music is both unusual and profound. The kemençe holds a cherished place in the region's cultural identity, channelling the joy, sorrow, and spirit of the Black Sea people through its melodies. It is an instrument that unites communities and is played at weddings, festivals, and village gatherings, where it brings people together to dance, sing, and celebrate life. Thus, it seems only fitting that the Dormition of Mother Mary in the Black Sea begins with the sound of the kemençe, and that religious leaders are greeted by its music as they ascend the zigzagging path to the monastery. The monastery, with its striking landscape, also offers a unique soundscape during these important events, where sacred hymns mingle with the haunting notes of the kemençe. Kemençe © Municipality of Trabzon Today, the monastery does not remain open year-round. Following the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in the 1920s, the monks left the region, and Sümela now opens its doors mostly to tourists. Yet, the monastery’s significance to the Orthodox community endures, evidenced by the establishment of a new Sümela Church in Veria, Greece, in 1951, continuing the legacy in the Macedonian mountains. Additionally, many Pontians who migrated to Australia built a Soumela Church for their community in Victoria, where thousands of Greeks of Pontic descent now reside.
Sümela Monastery, with its breathtaking landscape, also offers a soundscape like no other. Here, music weaves through the rituals, turning the ordinary into the extraordinary. As an integral part of the region's culture, it transforms sacred ceremonies into powerful expressions of identity and unity, resonating far beyond the monastery's walls. No matter where in the world it is heard, this music becomes a catalyst for bringing communities together, echoing the deep connections between tradition, faith, and belonging. Narrated by Konstantina Vlasakidou © Municipality of Sifnos Located in the Cyclades, the island of Sifnos boasts one of the most notable pottery traditions in modern Greek history. For over three centuries, Sifnos residents have been continuously engaged in ceramic production. Today, pottery remains an essential activity on the island, with more than 15 active workshops. Sifnian ceramics are deeply connected with the island's cultural heritage, artistic expression, and economy. The development of pottery on Sifnos is largely due to the abundance of refractory clay and the rich natural resources the landscape offers, coupled with the exceptional skill and craftsmanship of Sifnian potters, passed down through generations. Eventually, the term "Sifnian" became synonymous with a person practicing pottery, known locally as "tsikalas" (potter), "aggeioplastis" (pot-maker), and "kanatas" (pitcher maker). Historically, the primary land uses on Sifnos have included wood-cutting, agriculture, tourism, and mining. In ancient times, the island was renowned for its gold and silver mines, which remained productive until around 400 B.C. From the 16th century until the early 20th century, iron and lead mines were also active on the island. During periods of piracy in the Cyclades, workshops were situated inland to meet local needs. As the threat of piracy diminished, especially after the establishment of the modern Greek state, potters relocated their workshops to coastal areas, where conditions were more practical, and there were better opportunities for export trade. But how was this production carried out? At the height of the pottery industry, specialized roles were created: the "kladas" gathered wood for the kiln, the "homatas" collected the clay, the "moularas" transported the clay by mule, the "kopanistis" prepared the clay for throwing, and the master potter, assisted by the "basperetis," shaped the final products. Sifnian potters also migrated to other islands and various regions of mainland Greece, particularly Attica, including areas like Maroussi, Halandri, and Agia Paraskevi. Some even ventured abroad, spreading their craft and establishing the reputation of Sifnian pottery internationally. © Municipality of Sifnos Today, the pottery workshops on Sifnos produce a variety of household items for cooking and storage, such as the "mastelo" (a large baking dish), the "tsikali" (pot), the "kouroupou" (small jar), and the distinctive "flaros" (chimney pot). Alongside these traditional items, Sifnian potters continuously experiment with new forms and colors, staying true to their heritage. They embrace contemporary trends and aesthetics, developing new designs alongside traditional ones, with each workshop maintaining its unique character. They modernize their equipment and refine their craft, ensuring that pottery remains a viable livelihood, especially for those without income from other activities such as livestock farming or tourism.
There is a spirit of healthy competition and collaboration among local workshops, many of which have their own shops within the island’s settlements. Thanks to this practice, the production and sale of ceramics significantly boost the local economy. An essential mark of this vibrant tradition is that all pottery workshops on Sifnos are open to the public, allowing visitors to watch local potters at work. Furthermore, the Museum of Ceramics in Sifnos hosts cultural, educational, and recreational activities, promoting the island’s cultural identity internationally while creating a cultural legacy for future generations. It offers ceramics courses to inspire new ideas, seminars to advance the art, and periodic exhibitions featuring both local and international ceramists. Last but not least, the pottery tradition of Sifnos is actively promoted as a core aspect of the island’s cultural identity. The Potters' Association, in collaboration with the Municipality and community members, organizes exhibitions and activities to promote and preserve this art, aiming to safeguard the cultural heritage and memory of the island. For the Sifnian potters' community in Maroussi, preserving and promoting Sifnos' pottery tradition is equally important, seeking to bring greater recognition to their craft. Narrated by Irene Reyes Suero San Isidro's Meadow has long been a source of inspiration for Goya, and it's easy to see why. Every year on May 15th, Madrilenians—affectionately known as "cats"—put on their finest traditional attire and flock to the Hermitage of San Isidro, located in the meadow of the same name. This day, the Day of San Isidro Labrador, is marked by joyous music, dance, and food.
In the days leading up to May 15th, the Pradera transforms into a vibrant sea of "chulapos" and "chulapas," the names given to those dressed in traditional costumes. This celebration honors San Isidro Labrador, the patron saint of Madrid, whose miracles were closely tied to water. A cherished tradition during the festivities is drinking "agua del santo" (the saint's water) from the spring at San Isidro's Hermitage, believed to bring good luck for the coming year. Though rooted in religious tradition, the celebration has evolved into a broader festival of Madrid's culture, heritage, and community. Locals from all generations gather to savor traditional delights like Madrid-style donuts and lemonade, and to dance the "chotis." Unique to this dance is the role reversal where the woman leads the man; it is said that a well-executed chotis makes the man glide as gracefully as a toy dancer in a music box. While the festivity is a tribute to Madrid and its people, the "cats" are known for their hospitality, making everyone feel welcome in their celebration of life and tradition. Narrated by Elif AYDIN ©Yaara Eshet - Flickr Across the Balkans, communities come together in celebration, honouring the deep-rooted traditions that enrich their cultures. May 6th marks a special occasion across the region, known as Đurđevdan in Serbia, Hıdırellez in Turkey, Gergyovden in Bulgaria, Gjurgovdjen in Macedonia, and Ederlezi for Roma communities. It signifies the transition from the cold of winter to the blossoming of spring.
These festivities represent more than just a seasonal shift; they embody a shared embrace of hope, vitality, and cultural legacy. Throughout the day, a variety of activities occur, each reflecting the unique customs of their respective areas. Yet, despite this diversity, a common theme unites them all: the celebration of life's eternal cycle and the resilience of the mortal spirit. Central to these rituals is the act of cleansing and renewal. Houses are meticulously cleaned, symbolising the casting away of the old and the welcoming of the new. Flowers and blooming twigs adorn doorways and windows, infusing spaces with the fragrance of optimism and growth. Bathing in spring flowers and blossoms not only refreshes the body but rejuvenates the soul, affirming the inherent connection between humanity and the natural world. As families and communities gather, they share in the age-old tradition of making wishes for the year ahead. These wishes whispered into the ether, carry with them the collective aspirations of a people bound by shared dreams and aspirations. It is believed that in these moments, as the old year fades and the new one dawns, possibilities abound, and fortunes are shaped by the power of intention and belief. Beyond the surface-level revelry, these celebrations serve a profound purpose: they reinforce social bonds, nurture a sense of belonging, and affirm our shared cultural identity. In participating in these age-old rituals, individuals contribute to a collective memory that transcends borders and bridges divides. They affirm that our cultural heritage is not confined by the boundaries of nations but rather serves as a timeless testament to the enduring spirit of humanity. In essence, disregarding how we label it, these feast day celebrations are more than just annual events; they are living expressions of our shared humanity, reminding us of the power of tradition, the beauty of diversity, and the unbreakable bonds that unite us all. Narrated by Elif AYDIN Centuries ago, in the heart of Istanbul, amidst the bustling streets and markets, Tatavla emerged as a vibrant neighbourhood. Originally established in the 12th century by Genoese traders seeking shelter for their horses, this enclave, later known as Kurtuluş, blossomed into a cultural melting pot, earning the affectionate moniker "Little Athens."
At the heart of Tatavla's charm lay the Tatavla Carnival, a cherished tradition also dubbed as Baklahorani or Apokria. This spirited festivity, cherished by the Greek Orthodox community until its prohibition circa 1940s, spanned 40 days of revelry leading up to Lent. Commencing with lively processions through the streets, the carnival culminated in the vibrant square outside the Aya Dimitri Church, where laughter and music filled the air. During the carnival, participants adorned themselves in intricate costumes, masks, and theatrical makeup, paying homage to the ancient cultures of Greece and Rome. What began as a celebration of merriment evolved into a profound expression of religious and cultural identity for Istanbul's Christian populace. Yet, the carnival's allure transcended religious boundaries, attracting curious onlookers and participants from all walks of life, including Muslims from nearby areas. In the spirit of carnival, distinctions between performer and spectator dissolved as each individual became an integral part of the colourful tapestry of revelry. The spatial dynamics of the Tatavla Carnival were equally significant, predominantly unfolding within non-Muslim enclaves such as Kurtuluş, Galata, and Pera. Iconic thoroughfares like Istiklal Avenue served as vital arteries for the festivities, welcoming a kaleidoscope of beliefs and backgrounds. From its humble origins as stables for Genoese merchants' steeds to its evolution into a celebration of cultural diversity and expression, the Tatavla Carnival embodied the resilience and ingenuity of Istanbul's communities. Though its official festivities may have ceased, its legacy continues to echo through the cobbled streets and colourful memories of those who revelled in its splendour. |
Photo © Ara Güler, 1986
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