Narrated by Irene Reyes Suero San Isidro's Meadow has long been a source of inspiration for Goya, and it's easy to see why. Every year on May 15th, Madrilenians—affectionately known as "cats"—put on their finest traditional attire and flock to the Hermitage of San Isidro, located in the meadow of the same name. This day, the Day of San Isidro Labrador, is marked by joyous music, dance, and food.
In the days leading up to May 15th, the Pradera transforms into a vibrant sea of "chulapos" and "chulapas," the names given to those dressed in traditional costumes. This celebration honors San Isidro Labrador, the patron saint of Madrid, whose miracles were closely tied to water. A cherished tradition during the festivities is drinking "agua del santo" (the saint's water) from the spring at San Isidro's Hermitage, believed to bring good luck for the coming year. Though rooted in religious tradition, the celebration has evolved into a broader festival of Madrid's culture, heritage, and community. Locals from all generations gather to savor traditional delights like Madrid-style donuts and lemonade, and to dance the "chotis." Unique to this dance is the role reversal where the woman leads the man; it is said that a well-executed chotis makes the man glide as gracefully as a toy dancer in a music box. While the festivity is a tribute to Madrid and its people, the "cats" are known for their hospitality, making everyone feel welcome in their celebration of life and tradition.
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Photo © Ara Güler, 1986
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