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Narrated by Elif Aydın  Sümela Monastery © The Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Türkiye The Sümela Monastery, nestled in the Maçka district of Trabzon (Trapezunta), is celebrated for its breathtaking location, carved into steep cliffs at the end of a winding, zigzagging path. While this building technique is seen in various parts of Anatolia, Sümela's dramatic perch on a mountainside sets it apart. Though its origins are shrouded in mystery, certain stories have emerged over time. According to the most popular legend, the monastery was founded by two Athenian monks, Barnabas and Sophronios, who were guided by a vision of the Virgin Mary. In their dream, she revealed the location of St. Luke, hidden deep within a cave in the remote mountains of Pontus. The monks eventually discovered the icon in Karadağ (Black Mountain) in Maçka, and there, they built the monastery as a mission school to train future monks. The name "Sümela" is believed to have derived from the word "Melas," in reference to the Black Mountain, as 'stou mela' or 'at Mela,' which is pronounced as 'sou Mela' known in the Pontic dialect "Romeika." Over the centuries, Sümela grew to become one of the oldest and most significant monasteries in the Orthodox Christian world, often compared in importance to Hagia Sophia. In Turkish, the monastery is called "Meryem Ana," meaning Mother/Virgin Mary, underscoring its deep spiritual significance. The name Panagia Sümela, or "Sou Mela," translates to "Mother of God at the Black Mountain." Every August 15th, the monastery becomes the heart of celebration in the Black Sea region for the feast of the Dormition of Mother Mary. Yet, what makes the rituals at Sümela truly unique is the presence of the kemençe, a traditional stringed instrument that is central to Black Sea culture. Despite the solemn nature of religious services, the inclusion of this vibrant music is both unusual and profound. The kemençe holds a cherished place in the region's cultural identity, channelling the joy, sorrow, and spirit of the Black Sea people through its melodies. It is an instrument that unites communities and is played at weddings, festivals, and village gatherings, where it brings people together to dance, sing, and celebrate life. Thus, it seems only fitting that the Dormition of Mother Mary in the Black Sea begins with the sound of the kemençe, and that religious leaders are greeted by its music as they ascend the zigzagging path to the monastery. The monastery, with its striking landscape, also offers a unique soundscape during these important events, where sacred hymns mingle with the haunting notes of the kemençe.  Kemençe © Municipality of Trabzon Today, the monastery does not remain open year-round. Following the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in the 1920s, the monks left the region, and Sümela now opens its doors mostly to tourists. Yet, the monastery’s significance to the Orthodox community endures, evidenced by the establishment of a new Sümela Church in Veria, Greece, in 1951, continuing the legacy in the Macedonian mountains. Additionally, many Pontians who migrated to Australia built a Soumela Church for their community in Victoria, where thousands of Greeks of Pontic descent now reside.
Sümela Monastery, with its breathtaking landscape, also offers a soundscape like no other. Here, music weaves through the rituals, turning the ordinary into the extraordinary. As an integral part of the region's culture, it transforms sacred ceremonies into powerful expressions of identity and unity, resonating far beyond the monastery's walls. No matter where in the world it is heard, this music becomes a catalyst for bringing communities together, echoing the deep connections between tradition, faith, and belonging.
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